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Hands-On The Panerai L'Astronomo Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation Of Time GMT

Panerai's first watch with a moonphase indicator – and oh-so-much more.

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Commercially speaking, the biggest new releases from Panerai happened to come in the paradoxical form of the brand's smallest watch ever, a simple automatic Luminor that measures 38mm across, and an update at its entry level Luminor Base Logo, now offered with a three-day, in-house movement and a down-to-earth price of $4,750. 

But, if you know Panerai, you know the brand always makes a point of presenting a talking piece or two at SIHH. The watch we're going hands on with today, which is among the most complicated and customizable Panerais ever, is certainly that. What we have here is a 50mm tourbillon with displays for the equation of time, a second time zone, and, for the first time ever in a Panerai, the phases of the moon. It's name is a mouthful: The Panerai L'Astronomo Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT. From here on, we'll call this made-to-order watch – which comes with its equation-of time indicator set to its owner's desired location –either the L'Astronomo or PAM 920.

The skeletonized idol has a latticed structure that we have seen in earlier complicated skeleton models from Panerai, including Lo Scienziato.

This is in fact not the first time that Panerai has combined this tourbillon with an equation of time display. That was in the year 2010, with the similarly named L'Astronomo Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Equation of Time Titanio, PAM 365, which also came in a 50mm case. That watch was produced on the occasion of the 400th anniversary Galileo's celestial observations made as a result of the invention of the telescope. The real defining factors of this year's L'Astronomo are the fact that the movement is now skeletonized and that an interesting moonphase display has been incorporated on the rear side of the movement. The earlier version came with a closed dial and a sky map on its back. 

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The hand-wound movement powering L'Astronomo delivers a number of functions, and it does so while maintaining an estimable four days of power reserve via three spring barrels. It's the P.2005 GLS – P.2005, denoting its status as a tourbillon, the in-house base of which Panerai began developing 13 years ago, and "GLS" being short for Galileo Luna Scheletrato. As you can see, it's a thoroughly modern interpretation of a skeletonized movement, which comes in handy visually because it allows an open look onto the many, and I mean many, displays to be found on this watch's front and back. The movement alone comprises some 451 components. The lever escapement is suspended in a most unusual type of tourbillon carriage, but one that readers familiar with Panerai's complicated offerings will already know about. The tourbillon rotates the escapement in a direction perpendicular, rather than parallel, to the dial, and it does so twice per minute.

The tourbillon carriage, seen from the back or the front, rotates twice per minute, perpendicular to the dial.

The dial of this watch – actually "dials" of this watch – effectively are the movement, front and back. You can see the full range of functions offered by the Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT on them. Starting on the front, the construction of the dial / baseplate follows the latticed framework we've seen on other highly complicated calibers using the P.2005 as their base, most notably the Scienziato. 

On the caseback, you can see the day-night indicator, 24-hour scale, moon phase display, and a view of the tourbillon carriage and escapement.

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Beginning from the central axis, we see the hours and the minutes, as well as a GMT hand. Just below the axis is a linear scale that shows the difference between solar time (how time would be measured by a sundial) and mean solar time (how we show time on watches and clocks), according to the equation of time. Along the flange, in the lower right-hand portion of the dial, an arrow points to the hour that the sun sets at the watch owner's pre-programmed home location. On the left, a similar scale tells the hour of sunrise  at home. A sub-dial at three o'clock is marked with the letters D (for December), S (for September), J (for June) and a date window where there could have been an M for march. This calendar function is linked to the equation of time. But let's go back to that date window, this seemingly unassuming complication actually comes with a patented innovation of its own. The polarized crystal date consists of transparent borosilicate glass, making all parts of it effectively invisible to the naked eye, with the exception of the specific date that happens to be beneath the the polarized glass date window. This allows an unfettered view of the skeletonize movement and its functions. 

The dial show a range of features connected to the watch's equation of time display, in addition to its unconventional date display.

Meanwhile, the back of the dial is fitted with a twist on the traditional moon phase display. The upper disk is a day/night indicator that performs one rotation every 24 hours and clearly shows the day as a radiant sun and the night as a starry sky. But within that starry sky, there is a round cutout that opens to another rotating disc, this one tuned to the movement of the moon. This display shows the waxing and waning of the heavenly body, and is set to the home time of the owner at the time he orders his watch. The back of the dial also has a power reserve indicator printed with the numbers 0, 2, and 4, denoting L'Astronomo's four days of power reserve.

There is just no getting around the fact that this is an enormous watch; and with its many displays on its front and back, it feels more like a portable instrument than conventional wristwear. I've never owned a wristwatch that's 50mm in diameter, and to be honest, it's difficult to imagine someone wearing a watch this large on a regular basis. The case material can be customized when ordering this watch, so a lightweight titanium version seems like it would make the most sense, from a purely ergonomic standpoint. But steel and precious-metal options are available for those who might want them. The color of the hands, and the choice of strap are also subject to customization.

The moon-phase display is inscribed within a day night indicator on the watch's case back.

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As I said at the outset, this is a talking piece, and it's aimed at die-hard Paneristi – the type of collector who already owns several watches from this brand, and who wants a watch with a bit of customization that not everyone else will have. The Luminor Base Logo and the Luminor Due 38mm will likely  convert new clientele for Panerai over the next few years – this watch is for the fans.

Pricing for L'Astronomo starts at $230,000 for the titanium configuration pictured in this article and increases with the choice of various precious metal options. It will take approximately one year from time of order for the watch to be delivered. Once an order is placed, the client is assigned a specific watchmaker, who is the only person to work on that watch.