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A Week On The Wrist The Seiko 5 Sports SRPD

A new path for the Seiko 5 that attempts to capture the spirit of an enthusiast icon.


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Last year, Seiko announced an entire re-vamp of their much-loved Seiko 5 line up. An entry-level staple and certainly a 101 class in mechanical watch ownership, the Seiko 5 had long represented a cornerstone in the foundation of Seiko’s enthusiast-focused offerings. But, as nothing lasts forever, in announcing the new Seiko 5, Seiko ended the lifecycle of all of the older models and began a new chapter in the Seiko 5's impressive history. 

Interestingly enough, this is not the only enthusiast icon that Seiko recently sent to live on a farm in the countryside. What first was a rumor on the forums later became known more widely: Seiko is discontinuing the production of the legitimately iconic SKX007 (and its many siblings). 

I recently shared the story of my first watch, and while that humble little Timex did indeed kick off my interest in watches – like the endless stream of "entertaining" comic book movies every one assures me I should love – there is yet another chapter in my origin story. It's a story that leads to many many Seikos, but like many of you, it started with one true enthusiast-loved model – the SKX007. 

The classic Seiko SKX007. 

At this point, you may be wondering, “Why is he talking so much about the Seiko SKX? I thought this was a review of the new Seiko 5s”. Well, to my mind, you can’t understand the new Seiko 5s without understanding both the old Seiko 5s and their more dive-focused relative, the SKX007 (for simplicity I’m going to keep saying the SKX007, but this could be largely interchangeable with many of the other versions – more on that in a bit). 

In creating a something of a new formula for the 2019 Seiko 5s, aka the SRPD Seiko 5s, Seiko had to ensure they paid some favor to the enthusiasts that had long been telling their friends to buy SNKs and SKXs, and you can see elements of both in the new Seiko 5 design. The brief is still very much a Seiko 5, but the look is just a skootch off of the SKX007. Let’s dig in. 

The Seiko 5 SRPD67 (left) and the SRPD93 (right)

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Five What?

Starting with the Seiko 5, the line was originally launched in 1963 and was meant to offer value-driven everyday watches that were sport ready along with an excellent entry point into the Seiko line up, which by that time - in Japan, at least - included everything from the Seiko 5 all the way to Grand Seiko (which launched in 1960 with the gorgeous 3180-powered J14070). 

Furthermore, while I’m sure that many of you have owned (or at least read about) the Seiko 5, did you know that the "5" stands for something? True to the specific and focused way in which Seiko produces watches, the "5" is in reference to five base qualities that should be offered by any Seiko 5 watch. These include automatic winding, a day and date display, water resistance, a protected/recessed crown, and a durable case and bracelet. That feels like a recipe for an excellent and reliable sports watch and, from the Speed Timer of 1969 to perennial favorites like the SNXS77, the SNK381, or the truly wonderful SNK803 (or any SNK80x), Seiko 5 became synonymous with entry-level mechanical watches that didn’t skimp where it counts. Go ahead, Google Seiko 5 and see how often one (or several) pop up in listicles for the best watches under a given price. This is with plenty of good reason, as you can still snag an SNK803 for less than $100. 

Long story short, the legacy of Seiko 5 is as the Mediterranean or Baltic Ave in the Monopoly of watch enthusiasm. They aren’t expensive or flashy, but the value statement is pure Seiko and they offer a foundational building block for any value-hungry collector or buyer. 


Connective Tissue

Likewise, while representing a step up from the brand's most entry-level line, the SKX line of watches is something a bit more sport specific. While the "SKX" nomenclature is an umbrella that includes watches outside the scope of this post (like the classic SKX779 "Black Monster"), when most Seiko-nerds say "SKX" they are referring to watches like the SKX007, the SKZX009 (blue/red bezel), the SKX011 (orange dial), the SKX013 (37mm version of SKX007), or the SKX173 (the US market variant with a slightly different dial design). Regardless of the variants, the base unit of this design, and its formidable presence in the watch community, is the SKX007. 

Seiko's SKX007 dive watch. 

With a black dial surrounded by a 42.5mm steel case (46mm lug to lug and 13.25mm thick), a unidirectional dive bezel (with a luminous pip), screw-down crown, and 200 meters of water resistance, the SKX007 is a true tool dive watch. I’ve had mine for more than 10 years (I thought it less while recording the video, but I am getting old, see the below image – the first I ever made on a DLSR). It was my first proper mechanical watch, my first legit dive watch, and it represented my in-road not into watch appreciation, but rather into the ranks of the watch nerd (following untold hours on Poor Man’s Watch Forum and WatchUSeek, to make sure I wasn't off the mark). 

One of the author's earliest watch lume shots, dated to November of 2007. Left to right - Seiko SKX007, Tissot Seastar 1000 Auto, Bathys 100 Fathom Ruthenium Dal, Citizen Aqualand Chronograph, Seiko SKX779 "Black Monster", and a Traser Classic Auto. 

Over the past decade (plus), my SKX007 has been with me through a lot. Endless adventures, my PADI certification, and endless jobs around North America and Europe. It is the sort of watch that becomes a companion, nice enough to feel like you have a few things going for you, but not so nice that you feel the need to take it off when the going gets tough. I’ve worn my SKX007 on the included (and very jangly) jubilee bracelet, a Seiko Z22 rubber strap, an Isofrane rubber, a cadre of leather options, and of course, NATOs. A few years back, knowing that dive duty could go to a handful of other watches, I installed a Yobokies 12-hour steel bezel insert, which made my SKX007 both much more useful and much more me. Here it is running double-duty in London in the fall of last year:

The author's own Seiko SKX007 (with a modded bezel) almost exactly 12 years after the preceding photo. 

In all actuality, modding is a huge part of the Seiko community and no model is more readily customizable than the SKX divers. In the hopes of taking a known quantity and making it something just for you, the Seiko modding community offers everything from simple bezel inserts, to sapphire crystals, alternative hands/dials, special case coatings, and more. You can do the mods yourself or have any one of several known personalities complete your customization. If you need a vehicular example, the SKX007 is like the Jeep Wrangler of watches; a specific and simple creation of utilitarian concern with both casual and nerdy appeal and a near-endless underworld of modding and customization. Want to see what is possible? Just open up Instagram and scroll through #seikomod.

An Instagram search of #seikomod. 

To my recollection, I paid about $200 for this Seiko and not long ago I spent another chunk of cash to have it serviced (the7S26 is a workhorse, but not an accurate one, so be sure to keep yours tuned up by a qualified pro). I love this watch, I have convinced friends and family to buy the same (or similar) and I intend to have it around until it (or I) are claimed by one of many life's adventures.

At a more macro level, Seiko dive watches are special in that they can be both a unit of enthusiast watchmaking and just about anyone's one watch by offering easy appeal to both enthusiast or casual buyers. Yes the SKX007 is a bit big for some wrists (if so, sub in an SKX013) and yes the movement is not especially accurate or refined, but it's a tough steel dive watch with a classic Seiko aesthetic that can be traced back to 1968, and Seiko is a brand that both knows and loves the dive watch in all of its forms. 

With the above in mind, I look at the Seiko SKX007 (and in many ways the outgoing Seiko 5s), in two specific ways. First, as a product, and second, as the beginning of a fascination which has claimed more than the last 10 years of my life. I know that it may seem that I have digressed, but I'll do my best to put the above context to use. 

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The New Seiko 5

Nine of the available 27 Seiko 5 SRPD models. 

Ok, let’s start the review, shall we? Announced in August of last year, the new Seiko 5 line mixes the philosophy of the Seiko 5 legacy with the aesthetic of the much-loved SKX007. Verging on the more-than-familiar, the new SRPD Seiko 5 line has some 27 SKUs (at time of writing) and all models are all diver-like in their styling and use the same case and bezel structure (though finishing does vary). 

Of those 27 launch models, this review looks at some 10 models that range in color, finish, mount, and style, but all have a 42.5mm steel case (13.4mm thick and 46mm lug to lug), a display case back (common to Seiko 5, not seen on a stock SKX007), 100 meters water resistance, a passive crown (non-screw down), a Hardlex crystal, drilled 22mm lugs and a newer Seiko 4R36 movement.

So as a Seiko 5, the new line carries on with an automatic movement with day and date, water resistance, a protected crown, and a durable case and bracelet (several options are available here, from a steel three-link to a mesh to silicone strap and even an OEM NATO). And, as a nod to the outgoing king of entry-level Seikos, the new 5ers also look a lot like a Seiko SKX007. 

We see a very similar dial design (save for some branding changes, applied numerals, and the new Seiko 5 logo) and the case is, for all intents and purposes, identical to that of the SKX. While updated with drilled lugs (love) and a display case back (always a crowd-pleaser), i'’s very clear that while Seiko didn’t want to update the SKX line specifically (as their dive line up is now nicely packaged within the Prospex family), they did want the look and feel to live on as the new basis for the Seiko 5. While it’s quite likely that the new Seiko 5 line will expand into more than just dive-adjacent sports watches, as a relaunch I see this as something of a come up for the Seiko 5 in general but something of a half-measure for those that may have been hoping for a direct replacement of the SKX007. 

Where the new Seiko 5 has most certainly improved is in the use of a more modern Seiko movement, the automatic 4R36. A generational jump over the 7S26 common to previous Seiko 5s and SKXs, the 4R36 offers hacking and hand-winding (7S26 had neither) along with a 40-hour power reserve, a rate of 3 Hz (21,600 vph), and in my experience with several examples, improved accuracy compared to that of the 7S26/36 movement. While the new Seiko 5s cost a bit more (in MSRP) than the street price of many of the previous generation's models, the 4R36 is not entirely common to Seiko's most entry-level offering (many of you will have experienced the movement in many SRP Prospex divers). It's not a fancy movement, but it is reliable and accurate enough for a modern Seiko sports watch.

Aside from the movement and the similarity to the SKX, the next aspect of note for the SRDP Seiko 5s is the myriad versions available at launch. Again, I  was able to get 10 examples on loan from Seiko, but there appears to be some 27 different versions offered at launch. The line covers everything from more standard models like the SRPD55 and the SRPD53 to an all-black version (the SRPD65), a gold-tone model (the SRPD76), and the colorful and textured format of the distinctive green SRPD77.

Textured dials, color matched case finishing, and matching NATOs of the Seiko 5 SRPD77 (left) and the SRPD85 (right). 

It's a lot, especially considering there were only a handful of models in the original SKX00X lineup. In my mind, this is a direct nod from Seiko to the modding culture surrounding many of their entry-level pieces. A wide range of colors, straps, bracelets, and personalities, all from one base design. No longer do you need to buy the black dial and then order parts from all over the internet, now you can pick the one you want (or close to, theoretically) right at the store. Also, let's not forget that there is an unseen offering with these models, as they are US market available. While many of us turned to grey market dealers to buy warranty-less Seikos from Japan (or nearby, shout out to my SKX007K brothers and sisters), you can now get your Seiko 5 SRPD from your local Seiko retailer, and leave the store with a warranty and the welcome assurance of authenticity (which is a big plus if you're just getting into watches or uncomfortable with buying online from sometimes-dubious sources).


On The Wrist

As you can assume, the SRPD Seiko 5 line wears just like an SKX007. It's is a bit tall, but sits flat and evenly on my 7-inch wrist. Lug to lug distance is very agreeable, even for somewhat smaller wrists. Thickness and width are manageable, with the crown placement ensuring it doesn’t wear any wider than the measurement would suggest.

The strap options are of specific note as the bracelets and the rubber are vastly improved over what came, as stock, with watches like the SKX. The three-link "oyster" style is tight and nicely made, the silicone is soft and pliable, and while the mesh feels wide on wrist (no taper) it is nicely made and quite comfortable. Finally, the NATOs are better than I expected, with matched hardware and a soft but hardwearing finish. Not as nice as some of the premium options on the market but certainly well matched for the SRPD 5ers at this price point. As far as the mounts are concerned, a job well done (and with drilled lugs, it’s easy to change your mind). 

The Seiko 5 SRPD93 on wrist with its soft silicone strap. 

The new dial design is sparse with ample negative space and added presence, thanks to the applied markers. The black is smoother and richer than that of any SKX or Seiko 5 I have come across, and there are additional finishes that take the work even further, like the iridescent green of the SRPD61, the full stealth black-on-black look of the SRPD79, or the textured dials (and matched case coloring) of the SRPD77 and SRPD85

While the branding and dial text are limited, the lume is anything but. While these new Seiko 5s may lack the dive-specific chops of their aesthetic forbearer, they glow as well as any Seiko should. Bright, long-lasting, and more than ready to help flood your Instagram feed with #lumeshots. 

The Seiko 5 SRPD65 at full glow. 

Finally, while my old and well-loved SKX007 is not the bar with which I would measure the fit or finish of these Seiko 5s, I'm around a lot of Seikos and the touchpoints for these Seiko 5 have been improved. The bezel is smooth and positive (if a little vague, but that’s not uncommon to entry and mid-level Seikos) and the crown action feels much more robust than that of any previous Seiko 5 or SKX that I’ve fiddled with.

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Competition

With an MSRP starting at $295 (for more simple models on steel bracelets) and rising to $335 for the more intricate versions on a NATO and then finally $350 for models on steel that also have additional decoration (like the black/black SRPD65 for the tan/steel mech SRPD67), competition is tough. First, we have to consider the street price of both the outgoing Seiko 5s (many of which can be had for less than $150) and the SKX007 (where you get a true dive watch, but no updated movement, flashier colorways, or any sort of a Seiko warranty). 

Highlighted above, there is also the reality of the difference between Seiko MSRP and Seiko street prices. Many of you who have been around Seiko watches in the time of the internet know that there is a vacillating delta between the pricing suggested by Seiko, and the pricing found from various online retailers (including the grey market). To make matters more difficult, that delta can change due to demand (newer models tend to carry a street price closer to that of the MSRP) and due to the regional availability of the watch in question. By that I mean if you can’t buy it in a store in your country, the MSRP is largely meaningless. 

As an example, using what is likely my favorite affordable Seiko dive watch on the market today, the Prospex SRP777, the price has moved around a fair bit since they were introduced. Originally holding a street price that was aligned with its $495 MSRP, I’ve seen this watch (and other versions of the SRP “Turtle” diver) dip well into the sub $300 range and, at time of posting, pricing is hovering around $370 (which is still a considerable discount off of the MSRP). The point is, it can be hard to pin a fixed price to a Seiko and thus tough to establish the closest competition. But assuming a price point of around $250 to 400, let's give it a try. 

Seiko SKX007 

We’ve been over this, at length, and the comparison is definitely a case of give-and-take. If you really need a dive watch, the SKK00X divers remain a great option. That said, their price has risen since being discontinued and while there isn’t exactly a shortage to be found both new and second hand, they now cost roughly the same as a new SRPD Seiko 5, which will have a warranty, not to mention an updated movement. The SKX007 and other similar Seikos, is a great option if you must have an ISO certified Seiko dive watch around 42mm and under $300. But, in getting the dive spec, you trade some benefits available on both the new SRPD 5ers and other current-model Seiko Prospex offerings. 

(discontinued but street price hovering around $290 with a steel bracelet)

Seiko Turtle (SRP777 or similar) 

If you actually want to dive, or perhaps simply want what I believe to be the sweet spot in Seiko's more entry-level dive offerings, the SRP “Turtle” divers are nothing short of excellent. Yes, the case is a bit larger at 44.3mm, but given the dished case shape and its relatively square dimensions (it’s still just 48mm lug to lug) the Turtle wears way better than you’d expect. It’s a US domestic model available in several versions that span steel, gold-tone, and a handful of special editions. All have 200 meters of water resistance, a Seiko 4R36 movement, and feel more than at home underwater (I took my review unit diving several times in Vancouver).

$495; Seikowatches.com

Orient Mako II

Here is another fan favorite that shows up in a lot of lists for great entry-level dive watches. The Mako has been around for a while and comes in several versions, with the most standard being the black dial Mako II. With a 41.5mm steel case and a matching steel bracelet with solid end links, a sapphire crystal, and 200m water resistance, the Mako II has a committed following thanks to its classic design and excellent price point. If the Seiko options don't suit your style or you need a solid option on a tighter budget, the Mako II is definitely worth a look. 

$120; Orientwatchusa.com

Citizen Promaster Diver

If you want a dive ready option but would prefer the fuss-free nature of a solar-powered quartz movement, this Citizen Promaster Diver (ref BN0150-28E) has a lot to offer. On the larger size, this Promaster measures some 44mm with the crown but packs an Eco-Drive movement, 200 meters water resistance, and a date display at four o'clock. As a larger casual diver for weekends and vacations, or to balance out a more dressy workweek collection,  this may be just the ticket for grab-and-go scenarios and sub-aquatic adventures. 

$280; Citizenwatch.com

Scurfa Bell Diver 1 Auto

With a Miyota 9015 automatic movement, a 43mm steel case, and 500 meters water resistance, the Bell Diver 1 Auto from Surfa is a professional tool dive watch created by an actual saturation diver (listen to his story here). Complete with an HeV that the creator has actually used and tested, the Bell Diver is an example of just how much value is available just outside the usual suspects from Seiko and Citizen. If you’ve gone down the usual path many times, maybe take a look at value-focused but more specialized options like the Bell Diver 1 Auto.  

$400 (approx exchange); Scurfawatches.com


In Conclusion

So where does all of this leave the new Seiko 5s? From my perspective, the new SRPD line is well-positioned in a very competitive space. Yes, these new models follow the established Seiko 5 format, and lack the water resistance and the luminous pip to qualify as a true dive watch (although the international standard for dive watches does specify 100m as an acceptable minimum) but Seiko has many many more dive offerings in the Prospex line up. If you're a diver and want to take these diving, I'd suggest that while the 100m water resistance is likely more than up to the task, you may want to look elsewhere. If you're not a diver and you are looking for a handsome and well-made entry-level steel sports watch, then the new Seiko 5s offer excellent value and tons of variety to suit your personal tastes. 

Left to right - the Seiko 5 SRPD77, the author's modded SKX007, and the Seiko 5 SRPD87. All on NATO straps. 

The new Seiko 5 really makes the most sense only when considered in a post-SKX007 world. If you stick to the perspective, as I did initially, of someone who remembers the incredible excitement of opening that blue Seiko box to uncover their first Seiko diver, the new Seiko 5 feels under-spec'd and perhaps too expensive. But, as a modern offering into the enthusiast space, what the SRPD line lacks in toolish dive appeal likely won't matter to most buyers who want something that can handle the pool or perhaps snorkeling while on vacation. And for the ones that do care deeply, not only are there plenty of SKX007s floating around, Seiko also has a vast line of legit dive watches for not much more money. 

While not a true dive watch, I do think the new Seiko 5 manages to uphold the SKX007’s legacy as a value-driven and everyday-ready sports watch that is perfect for those who are just dipping their toe into the bubbling waters of watch enthusiasm. To that, I say jump in! The water is great and you likely don’t need 200 meters to have a whole 'lotta fun.