Beck Weathers: Left for Dead on Everest, Lived to Tell the Tale

Weathers joined the Adventure Consultants expedition led by Rob Hall and fellow climbers including Doug Hansen, Andy Harris, Mike Groom and journalist Jon Krakauer.

Another group, Mountain Madness, led by Scott Fischer, was also attempting the summit at the same time. Both teams were aiming for the highest peak on Earth — Mount Everest — in May 1996.

On summit day, Weathers, who had undergone radial keratotomy eye surgery 18 months earlier, experienced vision issues near the South Col. He went nearly blind until daylight, and after scratching an ice crystal across his right cornea he was left with no depth perception.

He was advised to wait while others continued their summit attempt. As weather conditions worsened, several climbers — including Hall, Hansen and Fischer — were caught in the death zone. Ultimately, eight climbers died during the descent.

After being presumed dead in a hypothermic coma, Weathers was left for dead by fellow mountaineers who believed he couldn’t survive the night. But against all odds, he awoke and managed to stagger back toward camp.

He suffered severe frostbite that turned his skin black, leading to the amputation of his right arm below the elbow and the removal of all the fingers on his left hand. Since his right eye’s cornea was lacerated during the climb (remember that ice crystal), that eye was blurred and without vision at the time.

He later described himself as looking like a dead man walking.

A dramatic rescue coordinated by Stuart Hutchison, John Taske and three Sherpas helped get Weathers back to base camp.

He was eventually evacuated by helicopter — a rare feat at such high altitude — and began his long journey home from Everest.

Back in the U.S., Weathers’ story was widely reported, including coverage by Newsweek magazine. He later co-authored the memoir "Left for Dead: My Journey Home from Everest," detailing not just the expedition, but his personal transformation.

He spoke candidly about how climbing had once been an escape from life’s emotional weight, but after Everest, he became a different person — more connected to his family, including his wife Peach Weathers and their two children.

Weathers has since traveled the world sharing his story, offering a message that goes beyond mountain survival. He often reflects on the wonderful sense of clarity and purpose that came after nearly losing everything.

As he told audiences, material achievements and possessions pale in comparison to love, connection and meaningful life.

The Everest disaster also sparked discussions about the commercialization of Everest, ethics among climbers, and the risks of breathing bottled oxygen in the death zone. Jon Krakauer’s book "Into Thin Air" and the film "Everest" brought further attention to Weathers’ story and the events on that mountain.

Beck Weathers' experience is not just a story of survival; it’s about reclaiming life, purpose and values at the summit ridge of adversity.

We created this article in conjunction with AI technology, then made sure it was fact-checked and edited by a HowStuffWorks editor.