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Bring a Loupe A Beautiful Triple Calendar Vacheron, A Rolex Submariner Ref. 6536/1 With A Tragic Past, A Retro Zenith El Primero, And More

This is your Bring A Loupe for August 18, 2017.

This week, there is no common theme, just a handful of very nice vintage watches. My favorite is undoubtedly the ultra elegant Vacheron Constantin reference 4560 with triple calendar and moonphase, but the story of the 1957 Rolex Submariner recently found on Ebay was definitely worth a mention as well. We will have two very different chronographs: a rare Aquastar Airstar; and a blue Zenith El Primero, the very 1970s reference A788. 


Rolex Submariner Reference 6536/1, With A Sad History
Rolex Submariner Reference 6536

This rare Submariner reference 6536 originally appeared on Ebay last May, and was sold for parts for a very moderate price. And this is a modest way to describe it since in Buy-It-Now condition the price was only $600. Unsurprisingly, the owner received an incredible number of inquiries and was able to adjust its price upwards, and the watch eventually went into the hands of a watch dealer (the one presently offering this Submariner). While Ebay finds are always a thrill, the subsequent price adjustment here also feels more than fair, since the first and only owner of this watch had died wearing it back in the 1960s when he was struck by lightning, and the Ebay seller was his widow. 

Granted, this Submariner at the time of its Ebay appearance was far from a beauty queen since the hands, and the plexiglass crystal were missing, and the insert was not affixed to the bezel. Since then, the watch has been revamped, including the addition of a new set of hands. Importantly, the original small crown characteristic of the reference 6536 and 6536/1 (the former being only produced in 1955) remained, and the watch retains the original bezel insert, with its catchy red triangle and the balanced 10 minute markers (while later design would introduce individual markers for the first 15 minutes). The condition of the gilt chapter ring dial is consistent with the backstory of this watch, and its storage without a crystal for more than 50 years.

Rolex Submariner caliber 1020

LunarOyster is offering this survivor Rolex Submariner 6536 for $45,000.


Vacheron Constantin Triple Calendar Moonphase Reference 4560, With An Elegant Rose Gold Case
Vacheron Constantin Triple Calendar Moonphase

The Vacheron Constantin reference 4560 is the darling of Vacheron Constantin collectors, who love its 35.5mm case (quite a large dimension for a watch initially launched in 1949) and its sophisticated claw lugs. This reference 4560 was available with and without a moonphase, as evidenced by the 1952 catalog below, but this additional complication really bring an outstanding balance to the dial. Stylistically, this Vacheron Constantin followed in the footsteps of the triple calendar wristwatches that the manufacture had offered throughout the 1940s (an excellent article on that subject can be found here).

The reference 4560 was only offered in yellow and rose gold, and the seller dates the present example to 1953, the 1950s also being a golden era for Vacheron Constantin triple calendar moonphase watches, before the complication was revived in the early 1980s. It exhibits outstanding legibility, with a smart display for each of its complications (note that the date disc is in Spanish), and the case looks to be in outstanding condition, with the characteristic claw lugs keeping their enchanting curves. 

Vacheron Constantin Catalog

Credits: MontresMécaniques

Matthew Bain is selling this superb Vacheron Constantin reference 4560 for $42,000.

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Zenith El Primero Reference A788, Unmistakably From The 1970s
Zenith El Primero A788

The El Primero movement has an exciting past, from its launch in 1969 to its near disappearance only a few years later. This caliber was indeed a technical marvel as it offered automatic winding with a chronograph complication, something that had not been accomplished before 1969. It was also the only offering that added a high frequency oscillator to the package, beating at 36,000 vph (and it still does to this day). Understandably, the El Primero was Zenith's pride, and therefore many designs were unveiled in the first years of its launch.

Out of them, the reference A788, is one of the most striking, with its blue dial, and its very 1970s case. Indeed, this watch (and its silver sibling reference A787) was only produced in 1971 and 1972, for a total of 1,400 pieces (and 1,500 examples for the A787). The present watch exhibits a very sharp 38mm case, and the original Zenith-signed bracelet. The dial looks in excellent condition, with no blemishes to its blue finish and nicely patinated lume plots (matching the lume on the handset).

Zenith El Primero A788 bracelet

MentaWatches has this funky Zenith El Primero A788 listed for $6,500.


Aquastar Airstar Chronograph
Aquastar Airstar

The Aquastar brand, which was spun off from the watchmaker JeanRichard in 1962, is well known for its waterproof watches, notably the Aquastar 63 and the Regate. It also produced some epic chronographs, like the single-register Deepstar and the Airstar you see here. This elusive chronograph also existed as a JeanRichard model, as documented by the brand's advertising. Yet, the very small number of Aquastar Deepstars seen, and their homogeneous excellent condition, lead many to believe that this model was assembled later, from unused parts stock, instead of being released in the 1970s.

Design-wise, the Aquastar Deepstar offers a great mix of dive watch and chronograph features, with a rather slim waterproof case with rotating bezel, and the ubiquitous Valjoux 72 caliber (yes, the same as in the vintage Rolex Daytona, and many other iconic chronographs). The black dial is also a model of balance, with a very nice patina on the lume. The seller notes that the hands show some minor aging, however the chronograph is said to work flawlessly. Lastly, the serial number of the case fits into the 200-unit range known to this day.

Aquastar Airstar Valjoux 72

A European dealer has this Aquastar Airstar priced at 6,500 Euros, or around $7,630.